The newest horizontal moraine had several other possibilities, a granite- fall coming down regularly immediately following ten good

K. OLECH

The latest people: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), W. Branski, A great. Gardas, W. Klaput, Yards. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy commander), J. Olszewski, Yards. Piatkowski, A. Pietraszek (doctor), Yards. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, A beneficial. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, Good. Strumitto and S. Wdowiak.

The initial ASCENT Out-of KANGBACHEN, 1974

The initial cluster spanning A beneficial. Gardas, Yards. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, M. Rogalski, A. Sobolewski which have Jepa, Sonam and you will twelve porters concerned the brand new Ramtang Valley on e lay where Jugoslav trip had for the 1965.

We arrived at work making preparations Foot into head caravan group, doing new reconnaissance of the npper a portion of the area and observing the fresh icefall and you may moraine by which the fresh new Jugoslavs reached the first patio from Kangbachen.

This new icefall, molded at a few account is actually most fractured and accumulated snow level it’s skin generated difficult the first observation from crevasses. The edges of one’s icefall was in fact threatened of the avalanches, you to definitely at some point was for the reason that the fresh new seraes about first terrace. yards. informal and you will resulting in avalanches of various models. Due to the recce we selected a safe channel through the middle of icefall, they becoming a fairly silent part between your seracs while the snowfields so we supposed.

Into the 20 April, we pitched the initial temporary tent on top of this new embankment away from the initial terrace (5750 yards.). 2 days later i discovered a course from moraine which are threatened less because of the brick-avalanches compared to the one to utilized by this new Jugoslavs. Camp I was dependent with the twenty-eight April from the 5400 m. throughout the icefall but is only for explore whenever transporting the newest lots. Camp II (5850 yards.) was a 3rd of the way-up the first patio. For the six Will get, we were currently when you look at the a temporary tent on 6200 yards., lower than a high face leading to brand new apparent saddle amongst the earliest terrace in addition to Jannu Area. So it unsealed slope are shielded with fixed ropes. Our very own performs is done in continuing accumulated snow and you will cinch blowing on a regular basis until the noon. Early in the day out of 11 Will get, I kept the fresh new tent (within 6200 yards.) with A beneficial. Sobolewski on Feet Camp. I transpired quickly – one hour to help you Go camping II, 1J instances to help you Go camping I and by 9-31 an excellent.m. we were already into the Base Camp. Brand new station through the icefall no longer resided! Fixed ropes and you can indicators was basically less than ice dust – there need become a huge direction out-of freeze prevents.

We satisfied all in Foot Go camping. Right here we decided to create a different sort of path to the original patio from the upper an element of the lateral moraine where we observed as an alternative reduced losing rocks today than step three months eardier. Toward p We and you will introduced its gizmos to Go camping II. From this date there clearly was zero Camp We but i continued to retain the earlier numeration. I centered Camp III (6350 yards.) on saddle.

Toward p III, i leftover the beds base Go camping as well as J. Olszewski and you will went along to Go camping II. The fresh route via moraine try logically noted on decorated stone-cairns of the S. Wdowiak and you will Sherpa Wangchuck exactly who showed a sizeable aesthetic overall performance for the doing that actually work. The team from P. Mlotecki arrived down the exact same big date to help you Base Go camping. Another class-users have there been except the latest Sirdar that has gone to Ghunza.

Next day i achieved Go camping III and you can came back toward nights towards tent within the seat, where the piece of cake wasn’t therefore striking. To your 16 Can get, a strong cinch produced the latest productive step quite difficult The team from W. Branski circulate a bit in the future across the saddle, then descended to help you Foot, shortly after repairing ropes. Following day i repaired such ropes for carried on have fun with, produced him or her prolonged of the from the several other 100 meters. and turned-back towards nights in order to Go camping III.